As our 21nd anniversary and Daniel’s 68th birthday approached, I wanted to do something different to remember him, this 6th year without him. 2006 was our last overnight visit to the Mystic, CT area. We found out our favorite BnB, Applewood Farm in Ledyard was no more, and our favorite historic dining spot, Randall’s Ordinary, had also shuttered. I decided to search for another nearby BnB to commemorate with a solo overnight (with my dog Magnolia). Every place was booked oddly, except for an old Victorian home in New London – close enough. I booked it and made a reservation at Captain Daniel Packer Inne. My Daniel loved this place, second to Randall’s, which has also shuttered. The Square-rigger Captain completed the Inne in 1756.My Daniel loved history and loved the water.
A coincidence left me with a small time constraint. I was given a free pass to see Tom Jones that same evening at Foxwoods, 20 minutes away. I told the hostess my other guest would not be joining me. It took me no time to order exactly what Daniel would have: First, DPI New England Clam Chowder, a hearty bowl that was one of the least salty tasting ones I’ve had. That brought it to the top of a list of bests. Second, without hesitation, the Scallops Nantucket – sea scallops baked with herb butter, white wine and seasoned breadcrumbs, cheddar, mashed potatoes, green beans. The short rib plate tantalized me, but tonight was for Daniel. I didn’t regret it. Accompanying my meal was a rustic slice of bread with a roasted garlic bulb for spread. Garlic doesn’t always like me, but Daniel had made the roasted bulb at home on special occasion as a way to enjoy it in such a fashion. The process concentrates the sugars and removes the pungency for easy digestion.
A brief conversation with the hostess again, on my way out, revealed that she had worked there in 2006 as a server; perhaps she served us our dinner. She noticed we were wearing the same exact Tiffany necklace. Another coincidence.
Consider that restaurant SOMETHING OLD. A desire came over me to keep tradition of my NYC dining commemoration but to try SOMETHING NEW. I had first surprised him with this new ritual on our 10th Anniversary at Le Bernardin. It was my plan to go to a new Michelin-starred restaurant for each subsequent anniversary. So why not keep that plan? Gabriel Kreuther was the selection, but for a weekday lunch, alone again. My early noon time meal began with a Savory Kougelhopf. I knew the word because my mother often made a traditional kougelhopf with a fruit sauce poured over it. It is a cake traditionally baked in a distinctive ring pan. This version; however, was presented as a bread service with a chive fromage blanc spread, and it answered the question of why this “candleholder” was empty on the table.
The dishware and silverware were eye-catching: The plates like broken stones from a French villa and the utensils with longer than usual handles so that you can smell the food longer before it reaches your mouth (my poetic reasoning). An ode to Daniel for the main dish, I selected fish: Skatefish, creamless creamed corn • summer vegetables • ginger emulsion. The third course needed to include a bit of sweetness: The Peach and Ricotta Croustillant, peach marmalade • melon sorbet • pistachio praline was to be reminiscent of a mini croissant but appeared more like a delicate wonton. An accidental refereshing drink came before the dessert. A hibiscus mule? I admired the dollhouse-sized clothespin clipping the flowers to the glass more than the drink itself.
But then what about SOMETHING BORROWED? – a place we have been to before in NYC and Michelin-starred? Restaurant Forgione called to my needs. Chef/Owner Marc was aware of why I was dining there two years ago and personally came over to speak with me. While this time I did not see him around, the host asked me where my little dog was. Is it possible he actually remembered us sitting outside? Or do they make notes on reservation names? It didn’t matter – I felt like I was coming home to family. The Happy Anniversary envelope with a hand-written card nearly brought on the tears, but the jovial and long-lost-friend-type server, well she lifted me up the entire time.
A cute surprise was the bagel-hole amuse bouche with herb dip. From the To Start section, I chose the Red Pepper Rigatoni with Duck Sausage and Roasted Pepper Relish, topped with a thin crispy wafer (possibly of cheese) covered in sesame seeds. It added a third dimension of texture. Then a gift from the chef came out on what appeared to be a personal mini grill. Atop on a skewer was Notkitori – grilled chicken with herbal gremulata.
For the To Follow…I left the decision in the hands of my server, between the swordfish and the halibut. She knew which way I was leaning: Swordfish – Lis’Caponata, Shabazi, Husk Cherry Salsa Verde. It was splendid and easily mistaken for a tender boneless veal chop. As I enjoyed it, I conjured up a photo of Daniel sitting at the table next to me with a halibut dish. I didn’t need to overindulge. That alone completed my meal, my sequence of honoring, remembering and treasuring him.
dishingondining 