September 16, 2023 marks our should-have-been 22nd wedding anniversary (my 8th one without him), and September 17, 2023 marks his should-have-been 69th birthday! But didn’t we just have a surprise birthday bash at Hansil’s in Oakland, NJ for his 60th?! Again, I celebrate, commemorate and have a one-person pity party at a Michelin-starred restaurant where Daniel and I had once celebrated and enjoyed a special meal. This is the 3rd time I have selected Forgione. It feels familiar, and the memories remain fresh, and I always feel “at home”.
I giggle a little when I arrive and the host leads the way to seat me (unbeknownst to anyone but me) at the same table where we created our memory, and so I sat on the bench seat where Daniel’s butt rested with his back to the wall – “It’s an Italian thing,” he would say. The sommelier – Kyle – made a point to stop by and say hello. I feel like he “knows” me now. I also had a prior run-in with him at Marc Forgione’s new restaurant One Fifth, which brings new life to Mario Batali’s shuttered Otto. Otto had an even greater place in my order because of how often we frequented it.
What to order to make this year special? The signature Snowdance Farms Chicken under a Brick must be so special because who in their right mind orders chicken in a fine dining establishment? I convinced myself to order what Daniel would have ordered for himself: to start, Jersey Corn Ravioli, Chanerelles, Lemon Verbena. Okay, that was slightly selfish. He couldn’t eat much pasta. Out of respect, I made sure to take small amounts on the fork in order to experience the pop of the corn kernels in the mouth, the slight chewiness of the mushrooms and then the slightly softer pasta that bursted with more corn flavor pouring out like Fresh’nUp gum. It was nearly erotic with the gradual levels of texture and the hint of vibrance with the verbena leaves. It felt earthy in a still-hanging-on-to-summer light fashion.
Dare I forget to mention the amuse bouche that has become a staple as well – the bagel bite stuffed with cream cheese and sprinkled with “everything” seasoning. A boxed dozen to go please for a week of breakfast treats. This literal single bite (translation of amuse bouche) sits upon a slate slab and reminds me of my parents’ patio. It takes me right back. And since I did not order an alcoholic beverage, Kyle took notice and offered a bit of champagne to “celebrate” when in actuality it’s more like a re-creation to help keep the memory at the forefront. Daniel would have drank it or a glass of Riesling. I lingered on a few sips and recognized Marc immediately as he roamed the dining area. I engaged him in conversation, a photo, a discussion of his establishments and our mutual love of Tom Petty!
Nicely paced, the main course followed. Subconsciously I knew, but consciously I thought I ordered something different. It was a long-standing popular selection: the F.V. Ivy Rose Halibut En Croute, Sauce Proposal, Hazelnuts. Wanting Daniel to “join me”, I went on Facebook to find the photos from when we were there in 2013! The first photo is of the halibut dish in front of Daniel! The layers of contrasting textures were evident again between the buttery soft halibut, the cauliflower puree sauce so velvety you want to propose to the chef, and the en croute, which was not wrapped in pastry but rather a thin crispy wafer atop to mimic the removed fish skin.
I intentionally skipped selecting from the first “to Snack” category so I would have room for the more important dessert. Perusing the menu, I wasn’t getting overly excited but became intrigued at one item that was just called “The Egg”, as if you were in a gallery. The server left the bait with, “It’s just called the Egg. I can’t tell you what it is. You either order it or you don’t.” That’s a door selection risk I was not only willing to take but needed to take! Don’t you dare tease ME with culinary suspense. This edible painting was presented with an action as the signature. I had made note of all the components, which were only revealed after I began endulging. I have to decided to leave the epicurean suspense behind the doors of Forgione. Hopefully that will be an option when you go. Here’s a sneaky golden peek, which is more than I had to go on! Add a Lavazza coffee with steamed milk.
Another one is in the books – actually in the blog. I don’t feel less sad, but in the way I needed to experience The Egg, I need to do this for myself. Thank you for being there with me Marc and not even knowing the impact.
dishingondining 